If you want to leave behind the hustle and bustle of urban Hong Kong, head to Lamma Island. I saw a whole new side of Hong Kong the day that I stepped ashore in Yung Shue Wan. Previously, my impression of Hong Kong was limited to walking under dripping air conditioners in Tsim Tsa Tsui, shopping in the upscale mall underneath my hotel, gazing at the skyline from atop Victoria Peak, bargaining for better prices at the night markets and drinking freshly squeezed watermelon juice as I explored the city on foot. In over 5 years of business travel to Hong Kong, never once did I take a ferry to anywhere except across the harbor.

Taking a ferry to Lamma Island is like stepping into another world. Lamma is the perfect place to go for a day’s walk or bicycle ride in a dramatic natural setting. A well maintained path winds its way along banana trees, beaches and big hills to connect the island’s two main villages. It was in Yung Shue Wan that I found a bicycle rental shop and started my three hour adventure.

After renting a sturdy mountain bike, I headed towards the big power plant that provides electricity for Hong Kong Island. As signs along the footpath proclaim, it is thanks to this power plant that the extensive trails on Lamma Island were constructed. I headed towards a beach to get a good look at the power plant. The beach was not a nice place. There was a large amount of garbage washed up onto the sand and there was the big concrete power plant looming in the distance. Even though the power plant was not a nice destination in and of itself, it provided me with a good reference point to look back upon as I crossed the island.

The next bit of ride was on a very nicely paved, gently rolling path that was surrounded on both sides by vegetation. The breeze felt wonderful as I sped down the path on my bike. Sometimes I would stop and have a look at an especially exotic-looking plant. After riding a while longer, I arrived at a nice beach. Although beach was for swimming and enclosed with shark netting, there were numerous shark warning signs posted. I did not go swimming.

Past the beach, the path headed up a big hill towards a bright red pagoda perched on the edge of the cliff. Soon I had to walk the bike up the steep path that wound its way up and up along a hill that dropped sharply off into the water. The power plant and the beach became smaller and smaller as I continued to push the bike and myself up the hill. The effort began to pay off as the view expanded and I started to be able to see off both sides of the island! Although there were other people walking, running or biking along the path, but not so many as to make things crowded.

Soon I passed the red pagoda and the path narrowed considerably. During this stretch, there were no guardrails. This only improved the view. Ahead of me was a narrow path winding into the distance with a huge drop to my right into the water. A very short ride up and the path crested the top of the island. The wonderful view switched to my left and the path started heading down quite quickly. Although I enjoyed the ride most of the way down, there were a few times when the rate of descent became a bit much for my liking and I walked the bike a bit. I did not want to worry about not making a turn and pitching myself off the path, down the hill and into the water far below.

Finally, after rounding another bend, I saw a quarry and the small village that was my goal. The ride to the village of So Kwu Wan was exceptionally nice since it was slightly downward sloping and approached the town from across a blue bay. Just before entering town, I found at a beach littered with unbroken shells. It took me no time at all to collect more shells than I could carry.

My ending point, So Kwu Wan, was the perfect place for a seafood dinner. Many restaurants with outdoor seating overlook the harbor. I was very happy to find a fresh fruit shop selling watermelon. As I sat looking out over the bay, enjoying my watermelon in 100+ degree weather, I found it hard to believe that this island of rolling hills and beaches was indeed Hong Kong.